So you have this idea in your head. You are thinking of building an extension? OMG No!!
But that’s all it is “An Idea” It only really becomes a Plan when you write something down that you can share with others and get their input. There are lots of reasons why you should stop waffling and put pen to paper, but I think the most fundamental one is commitment. Commitment to the project when you stop wasting time and move forward. After this the most important component in any project is urgency, so straight away the question is “are you doing this or not” I am not listening to your never ending questions for literally years. Once you have a plan a QS can tell you how much it will cost to build as a self build. If you get a builder to do the project he will normally charge a minimum of 12% Profit on top of the cost price. Then there’s VAT depending on Who is doing the job and how it is being Invoiced. If you can’t afford it this year your approved plans give you years to save up for it, in which time you will increase your awareness of the project. You have to step; over then Rubicon.
I don’t do Damp Surveys or investigate Damp patches around chimneys or any other Condensation problems. I would however recommend educating yourself about damp problems before drawing up a remedial work schedule. The information here is here to help you increase your awareness of conditions in badly ventilated houses with rubber sealed air tight windows.
In my experience the most common type of Damp Problem I see is “Condensation”. Which often begins with a call from someone telling me they “have a leak”, even though its “cause” doesn’t make much sense.
It’s coming in through the pointing so the pointing needs sealed.
It’s coming through a crack in the wall so you need to seal the wall.
I can’t see any damage so the Roof tiles or the lead needs sealed
I need an estimate to fix what I can’t define.
The Damp Problems explanations often sound strange as they are mostly created to support a penetrating damp theory.
Often the conversation become’s difficult as the customer repeatedly tells me what’s causing theDamp Problems while asking me whats wrong at the same. “Its definitely not condensation” being a typical response.
But Lets take a step back for a moment and think. IMO Since the advent of PVC Windows
the vast majority of internal “Moisture” Problems are in fact caused by Condensation.
Trickle Vents are a very economical and increasingly common solution to many Condensation
issues. I therefore find it quite unreasonable to call a Builder out to a problem room or space
which doesn’t have trickle vents or adequate ventilation in area in question and then ask them
what the problem is.? If you require trickle vents installed I would recommend Allan Hall
There are plenty of Jane Doe’s. But the main problem is there are plenty of Building Surveyors, Agents and Builders who will agree with Jane Doe and help her perpetuate the myth by giving her a Remedial Work Schedule costing thousand’s of pounds.
Stephen Boniface, former chairman of the construction arm of the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors (RICS), has told the institute’s 40,000 members that ‘true rising damp’ is a myth and chemically injected damp-proof courses (DPC) are ‘a complete waste of money’
In response, the RICS has put the term ‘rising damp’ in inverted commas in its latest factsheet – according to Boniface, as a ‘non-subtle hint’ to its members.
‘The most likely causes of damp are moisture penetration and, most commonly, condensation,’ said Boniface in an interview with NBS Learning Channels (click here to view).
In response, Elaine Blackett-Ord, chair of the Register of Architects Accredited in Building Conservation, has also spoken out against rising damp, saying it was as rare as ‘rocking-horse shit’. Blackett-Ord said:‘’This self-perpetuating industry is believed to be worth over £200 million per year.’
But lets be clear : Were you have obvious damage or defect which corresponds to a localised internal staining etc then it must surely be penetrating moisture. The common mistake is to simply reverse engineer every problem that it “has to be ” coming from outside.
Approx £250 million per year is made on this self-perpetuating industry.
Commercial pressures.
Many “surveyors” are essentially salesmen, and some even take a percentage commission on the damp-proofing work they specify. Dont invite a damp-proofing company to inspect your home for dampness problems and be surprised if they “discover” its existence. As its how they make a living.
These salesmen use electrical conductance-type meters to “diagnose” rising damp. These are labelled “moisture meters”, but they do not really measure moisture. They measure electrical conductance, and give a reading on any building material which allows an electric current to flow through it.
Problem is Clinker blocks, for example, which are made from coal ash, have a high carbon content, which means they conduct electricity. So clinker blocks will always give a high reading on one of these meters, even when they are bone-dry.
These meters are calibrated for timber and they can give reasonable approximations of moisture contents in wood, but on bricks, plaster and wallpaper they give readings which are way too high, this means they can ea
Moisture, relative humidity & Damp Problems
Building surveyors are similar and are famous for using vague generic language when surveying houses up for sale. A house which is empty for even a few days in winter can be diagnosed to appear problematic when the house is in fact fine.
Condensation – the basics
Condensation is the most common form of damp problems in buildings, due to the introduction of double glazing, which reduced ventilation of the property. Older properties, with sash windows and open fire-places are far less likely to be as severely affected by surface condensation.
Moisture, relative humidity & Problems
Condensation is often due to ‘life-style from Cooking, Bathing and just general activities and breathing etc this coupled with a lack of ventilation can easily cause the damp problems.
Before looking at condensation it is necessary to understand a little about water vapour in the air. At any given temperature the air can hold a given level of water as vapour – the warmer the air the greater the potential amount of water vapour that can be held.
For example: Air at 10ºC is saturated when it contains 7.6g water per kg dry airand, air at 20ºC is saturated when it contains 15.3g water per kg dry air – just over double. So if we know the maximum amount of water that can be held it is very useful to know how ‘saturated’ the air actually is.
For example the proportion of actual water vapour compared to the maximum amount that can be held at a given temperature. This proportion is known as the RELATIVE HUMIDITY (rh) and is expressed as a percentage.
Relative humidity can therefore be defined as the actual amount of water vapour in the air expressed as a percentage of the maximum amount of water vapour that could be held at the same temperature.
Therefore air, say, at 10ºC could hold 8 grams of water vapour at its maximum, and if in reality only 4 grams was actually found, then the relative humidity would be 4/8 x 100 = 50% i.e., the air is 50% saturated. Similarly air at say 20ºC could hold around 14 grams of water vapour at maximum, but if we found only 7 grams in the air then the relative humidity would also be 7/14 x 100 = 50% at that temperature.
Condensation and Dew point:
What happens if we cool moisture laden air? We know that cold air cannot hold as much water as warm air. So when the air temperature has cooled so much that it can no longer hold the the same amount of water as vapor.
When this happens liquid water drops out of the air as CONDENSATION. The temperature at which condensation begins, i.e., when the relative humidity reaches 100% (air is fully saturated) is the “DEW POINT” temperature.
Surface condensation The cause of surface condensation is where moisture laden air comes into contact with a suitably cold surface – any surface including walls, floors, sub-floor areas, roof spaces, etc.
As moisture-laden air gets close to the cold surface it starts to get cooled and so the relative humidity increases; the greater it is cooled the higher the relative humidity (remember water from a large bucket passing to a small bucket as explained above). Against the cold surface the temperature of the air now drops below the dew point temperature and liquid water drops out as condensation.
Remember
1) Keep your home well ventilated by opening windows every day.
2) Always use extractors on high power when cooking and for 19 minutes “after cooking”.
3) After baths & showers keep door shut open windows with extractor fans turned on.
4) If you use a tumble dryer make sure ventilation pipe runs outside.
5) Small gaps between outside walls & furniture allows air to eventually form into black mold.
6) Air bricks and chimneys should always be clear.
7) In Winter try to maintain a constant temperature in your home.
8) Always keep the lids on pots and pans whilst cooking so that the moisture does not escape from the pans.
Water comes from the ‘life-style’ – just normal everyday living. The amount of water produced from normal household activities can be quite considerable. Certain other activities such as using bottled gas and paraffin heaters add significant amounts of water to the air.
The by-product of burning these fuels. drying clothes over radiators etc also adds water vapour. Also consider that the surface area of your lungs is in excess of 75 square metres and warm air is passing over this wet surface as we breathe 15-20 times per minute;
This is being breathed back into the environment! Indeed, it is reported that a large dog can give off even more water vapour than the average adult! Contrary to popular belief, Damp Problems from rising/penetrating damp, and damp floors do not add significantly to the water burden in the air
because water evaporation from such ‘static’ surfaces is very low compared to breathing and other active water producing activities. Indeed, recent figures obtained from Building Research Establishment using a validated model showed that a “saturated” floor slab of 8sq.m in a room at 60% rh and 20ºC lost around 36mls water per day, ie, 5 tea spoons full!
This compares to around the 15 litres of so (nearly 4 gallons) produced from normal household activities. Indeed, and individual often produces 10 litres of water per day just form simple occupational activities. Furthermore, it becomes quite evident that given the rate of drying of a wall.
(1 month for every 25mm in thickness) then water is lost very slowly to the environment and even then most of the water passes outwards. Why? Water vapour exerts a pressure (it is part of the atmospheric pressure) and over most of the year there is more water vapour in a building that externally.
In an unoccupied property external water vapour will balance with internal water vapour, but as soon as the building becomes occupied water vapour is generated internally and adds to the environmental water burden – the more water vapour, the greater the vapour pressure.
This now means that there is a greater vapour pressure internally than external and so water vapour now passes down its vapour pressure gradient, ie, from inside to outside. Thus, the most likely direct cause of surface condensation is ‘life-style’, ie, water produced by the occupants activities, coupled with insufficient ventilation.
Occasionally one can find a ‘normal’ life-style but certain areas of walls or cold spots (e.g., dense concrete lintels) are sufficient cold to allow condensate and mould growth to form.Mould growthWater vapour in the atmosphere alone causes no problems – certainly not health problems.
Indeed, constant inhalation of very dry air can. However, condensation and maintenance of high humidities does lead to mould growth. This can usually be detected frequently by the musty odour associated with damp. Where such conditions occur it is mould spores in large numbers that may cause some to experience health problems.
The most common mould associated with condensation is the ‘black spot’ mould, Aspergillus niger. However, other moulds may also develop – it depends on the substrate and conditions. For example, some moulds will readily colonise leather at relative humidities maintained around 76% whilst on brick and paint relative humidities in excess of 88% are reported required.
Green and yellow moulds may be present; some white moulds are occasionally mistaken for efflorescent salts. It should be appreciated that some black moulds may be one of the ‘toxic moulds’, the most well know being Stachybotrys chartarum.
This particular mould is black and slimy; it also requires a cellulose based substrate, i.e., paper and cardboard. So care may need to be taken when investigating the nature of mould growth.
It is the mould growth that tends to cause the most concern because not only do they produce the musty odour but also cause decorative spoiling, and also spoiling of fabric in some cases. Moulds, once germinated, require the maintenance of persistently high relative humidities, usually over 75%, but frequently much higher.
Moulds therefore have a tendency to develop in those areas where air flow is limited and the air remains damp and stagnant, e.g., corners, floor/wall junctions, etc, where we can frequently see ‘triangular’ patterns of moulds very typical of a condensation problem (photo above).moulds.
But please note that such humid conditions can arise naturally during the humid warmer summer months, but they do not persist sufficiently long enough to maintain any mould growth. The most common proven health effect associated with moulds is asthma.
However, smoking, pets and dust mites are also know trigger factors for asthma, the latter also being found in greater numbers in ‘damp’ environments. But note that the presence of mould is not distinctly synonymous with large numbers of spores in the air; it is likely that large numbers of spores/very heavy growths are necessary before health effects become noticeable in normal healthy people although some may be more susceptible than others.
Notes: There is more water vapour within a property than externally most of the year. This is simply the result of the extra water added by ‘life-style’ (see above). Don’t expect to maintain relative humidities less than 75% during periods the summer; moisture contents of the external air are such that relative humidities internally in excess of this will naturally occur.
Beware of relative humidity figures alone without knowing the temperature! It can lead to misdiagnosis! For example in a recent case the air was reported to be at 65% relative humidity. The surface of the solid floor was pronounced to be 85% relative humidity from which it was stated that the floor was damp, possibly a damp-proof membrane defect.
However, investigation showed the floor to be dry (no capillary moisture) and, as one would expect, several degrees cooler than the ambient air temperature. This would mean that the relative humidity at the floor surface was higher! Someone hadn’t considered that the relative humidity increases as the temperature falls!
Using the same principal, don’t stick a relative humidity probe into a wall as a measurement of possible dampness – the wall is likely to be colder than the internal air temperature, and the coldness will increase the relative humidity with the same amount of water vapour in the air (NB the ‘buckets’ described above)
The higher relative humidity obtained may not reflect ‘dampness’ in a wall, just the difference in temperature! You have been warned! Finally, on the use of electronic hygrometers. Some recent tests showed that for some electronic hygrometers to come into equilibrium with the surrounding environment took some considerable time.
Thus, taking the instrument out of a cold car and using it immediately in a property would certainly give VERY misleading results. The instrument MUST be allowed to come up to room temperature (or down). Some initial tests suggests that as a rule of thumb you give a minimum of 10 minutes plus 3 minutes for each degree change in temperature.
For example coming from a cold car, say 10ºC into a room at around 20ºC will take 10 + (10 x 3) = 40 minutes before one should contemplate recording data.
If you have a Damp Problem.
As I no longer do Damp Surveys I would instead recommend educating yourself about damp problems before drawing up a remedial work schedule. Its all there for you all you need is common sense.
First item in our Builders Blog is chimney demolition. This demolition is quite odd as both Chimneys had already been demolished and rebuilt with full Chimney lead trays costing thousands of Pounds. However when they were rebuilt they both had the very same problems & symptoms they had before all the the money.
Blog Summary.
Unfortunately this is yet another unfortunate error of mistaking Moisture & Mildew caused by Condensation/bad ventilation etc for Water ingress was made.
Conclusion
Don’t take the advice of just one Builder. Especially If it’s going to cost a lot of cash. Get a second opinion, preferably from an expert.
This partition is odd as it has neither Thermal or Acoustic insulation and No Fire Rating.
Its only purpose is to stop light coming into the Photographers area were he Photographs the Cars. It only required a very basic single boarding either side and for or effect all the uprights and track were cut off site and Hot mud – “Easifill 20” (which goes off in 20 Minutes) was used. On top of this we used 3 coats normal White emulsion.
Summary
Because the job was relatively small it was deliberately scheduled for one day to show the obvious advantages that dry-lining has over traditional finish etc when surfaces are painted and finished the same day.
Conclusion
Drywall compound is a lot more versatile than Gypsum Plaster.
This is a Listed building with a Date of Construction of 1860
Which basically means its an excellent example of a rather grand 1860
Stone House and building of local & Regional importance.
What this really tells us is that these Stone Chimneys have been taking a
hammering from the North Down Coastal Winds for 160 odd years.
So I suppose the serious damage and degradation of some the stone over this
time is no real surprise. Some of the chimneys were repaired in Situ while others were
completely rebuilt using stone from other salvaged chimneys on site.
Unfortunately a few of the Chimneys were in such a serious condition they had
to removed completely Carefully Bubble Wrapped & bound before being
lowered to the ground and stored on Pallets.
The flues of these demolished chimneys were first closed off and filled with
granular insulation before being capped off capped with 40N High strength
Concrete and then sealed with SBR Tanking Slurry.
Greater Belfast Garden Rooms
In Greater Belfast as in most of the UK the advantages of a Garden Room are many. The lack of Planning requirements. More info here. enables one to create quality living Space almost instantly without the hassle of a traditional Home Extension.
Garden Rooms can be used as Offices, Workshops, Treatment rooms, Gyms etc it can also act as a valuable quiet retreat from the main House promoting Mental & Physical Wellbeing.
In the Photos below of two Bangor Garden Rooms the recently finished Darker Garden House in the centre of Bangor is used as a Treatment Room for clients. It has mains electric, its own WC and is finished in Composite panels. In cost it comes in at approx £15,000.00
The smaller white Zero Energy Garden house can be easily moved around. It has mains electric but no WC. It is currently used as an office in my yard in Bangor but it has been used for accommodation without heating even in the dead of winter. It was made for a couple who later split up before it was finished which is why its for sale.
Composite Clagging
Treatment Room for Physio
Garden Office 2.3 x 2.1
Zero Energy.
The Three Main Problems with Concrete Window Sills.
Structural alterations due to House Sale Collapse.
Removing an unusual Obelisk type Skylight from Crawfordsburn Road Brethren Church.
Save thousands on replacing by repairing damaged window sills like new.
This is a Simple Roof Survey (AKA Me Standing on top of a ladder)
Emergency Repair @ Old Seahill Road Holywood
Photos below show a Typical Emergency Repair on direct instructions from insurance Company. This Minor Repair was completed within 4 hours of initial prone call from Insurance Company for less than £200.00
The Water damaged ceiling had its damaged Sheets removed. We will be repair this next week with a drywall repair after it has had a chance to dry out. This blended in ceiling repair will cost £375.00 ands will be finished the same day.
Chimneys are generally ‘out of sight, out of mind’ but remain a fundamental part of any home. Your Chimneys condition has various implications to your home from Damp and Condensation to serious Structural and Health & Safety issues.
Neglected chimneys are a potential accident.
Brickwork can become a deadly weapon in extreme weather conditions. We therefore promote pro active maintenance above reactive maintenance.
The most common Chimney repair is cracked, fractured & eroded caps.
If neglected open cracks will hasten the onset of more serious problems such as instability, water penetration and even disintegration. If caught in time, all that may be required to fix this and prevent further deterioration is a spot of localised primer and slurry coating.
Your Chimney is Punished by Icy Gales and the Baking Sun
Because of this its Cap or Crown is Exposed to the full range of Extreme Weathers above the ridge-line. You generally cannot see your Chimney Crown, but it is the most important part of your chimney designed for the protection of your chimney shell from water ingress. It is also the most exposed area of your home, it has to take the full force and fury of the constant exposure to the elements, the chimney crown often cracks shortly after construction usually within the first year of service.
Improper maintenance of the chimney crown causes serious damage to chimneys every year. Remember just because your chimney crown is hard to see or hard to get to, doesn’t mean you should neglect its’ maintenance, which can ultimately cost you thousands in unnecessary repair bills if you ignore it.
What problems can they cause?
A cracked chimney crown let’s water into the chimney body. Over time the crack widens letting more and more water enter the chimney. Eventually the retained water becomes more than what is evaporated and degradation begins. First with discolouration of the top brick courses with spalling, chipping and flaking of the bricks. With stone chimney’s moss and dark mold appears on the top of the chimney too.
If the damage isn’t severe, a repair to the top of the chimney can be made by general brickwork repairs and the application of a Cement based Crown Slurry Sealer to the crown. This protects the chimney and acts like a umbrella by shedding rain water from the top of the chimney stopping water penetration through the chimney crown. Secondary water entry, through the facing brick of the chimney, can be stopped with an acrylic-based clear masonry sealer to the chimney’s facing brick.
Materials, Mortars, Slurry Coatings and Chemical Solutions
We can Restore and Protect your Chimney Stack from whatever is thrown at it while maintaining its appearance and style.
If you have any concerns about your chimney please contact us for a free no obligation quote.
Chimney Repair solutions include.
Chimney Diagnostics & Solutions
Chimney Recapping & Repairs
Chimney Demolition / Removal
Chimney Pointing and Repointing
Chimney Structural repairs
Chimney Pot Replacement & Repair
Chimney Flashing Renewal & Repair
Chimney brickwork restoration & repair.
Damp chimney breasts may signify ventilation problems.
If you identify a problem get it checked sooner rather than later by ringing
me on 07401088868 – You can also email photos etc to info@jgm-ni.com
Chimney repairs & Removal… Well actually this isn’t.. sorry wasn’t a Chimney. It was originally a lantern roof on a Methodist Church which later became Brethern and was(after being destroyed by the ravages of time) no longer required.
This one is situated on the corner of Killaire Park Bangor and the Crawfordsburn Road.
The cap and flaunching
take most abuse
on any Chimney so its
important to keep
them in good condition.
Moss Covered Flaunching around Chimney
This flaunching used
rather weak mortar
which has accelerated
errosion.
Chmney errosion
Lack of cement in the
flaunching mortar
exaggerates exposure
to hail, freezing driving
wind, rain and also
the baking sun. This
chimney beside Ulster
Rugbys Ground at
Ravenhill Park Gardens
is surrounded by trees
which given the “open”
condition of the mortar
lets nature do the rest.
Ulster Rugby Ground Ravenhill
On this particular repair the whole chimney was cleaned of moss mechanically, burnt by blow lamp and soaked in nitric acid.
All structural problems were then primed and repaired before a new stronger coat of flaunching applied and then sealed.
Chimney repair Ravenhill Park Gardens
Why do people still insist on putting flues through roofs
when they can put them
through the wall.
Is it because they “Want trouble”?
3 Primacy Road, Bangor BT19 7PQ
“Just a nice little cottage style Chimney Repair at the old school house primacy road Bangor.”
As Flat Roofers we always try to stress that (Summer) Flat Roof Maintenance is more important than Slate or Tile Roofing and will dramatically increase the life of any Flat Roof(in reasonable condition) at minimal cost.
Most people know Gutters should be Cleaned, Checked & and any Minor Repairs (Pointing Etc) made good etc.
But when thinking ahead with Flat Roofing there are many ways your Flat Roof can be improved through predictive preventive maintenance, many products including bitumen based paints etc may be added to your flat roof at all stages of its life which can protect, enhance and dramatically increase its life span, while preventing damage from water ingress.
Most of the Flat Roofers claims about Flat Roof coverings are similar
to the dieting business, there’s always the next big thing
with lots of impressive claims until you look a bit closer and
it starts to get a little more complicated, there’s always big headlines
with little to back them up except selective comparisons often out of
context.
Felt Roofing
In the 70’s Felt Roofing consisted mainly of boiling bitumen in Boilers
before pouring it on decking via watering can’s etc while rolling and
fitting the felt accordingly before the Bitumen Cooled. This
was quite a major procedure especially in Northern Ireland and its
very changeable Weather. The introduction of Torch on Felts however
has reversed the decline of Felt Roofing and in my opinion Torch on
Felt with Bitumen Based Aluminium Paint is a superior product to
Butyl & EPDM in many ways.
Although Torch-on Felt Roofing is much easier than its predecessor it
is still a more skilled job than Butyl or EPDM.
The reason Butyl became Popular in N Ireland was mainly because the
NIHE began issuing grants on Butyl. Not because it was a better
product than Felt but because it was a single piece of rubber it
was harder to “make a mess” of it. IMO Felt was better back then and
is still better Today. But it must be done right.
A Typical claim.
Butyl is slightly more expensive than EPDM It is also important to remember that both Butyl and EPDM come in sheets made to order. Some Flat Roofers “pretend” not to or simply don’t know this and lead people to believe that EPDM comes in liquid form only. I have tried the liquid form of EPDM and found it is problematic with the Northern Ireland Climate and is prone to blistering and cracking. If someone requests a rubber roofing sheet installed on new decking and don’t specify which type I will generally quote for EPDM simply because it is cheaper and more logical in competitive tendering not because it is somehow better for Flat Roofs. Often people ordering Butyl are given EPDM as they cannot tell the difference.
James G Mulvenna Torch on Felt Roofing Saint Brendans Church Sydenham Belfast
Summary
Of course there are plenty of Flat Roofers claiming X, Y & Z.
But it would be fair to say EPDM is slightly Cheaper (Handier
and Easier) than felt (Especially in the Winter months) This
doesn’t make it a better product which its not. Generalising
and comparing EPDM with felt is misleading as (for a start)
EPDM is thinner(1mm – 1.5mm) and generally less
expensive than felt and is generally used as single layer. Felt
is normally multi layered and up to half an inch thick. So
you could in most cases stick a hatchet into it and it
probably still won’t leak, whereas EPDM is much more
vulnerable.
Conclusion
Felt Roofing Generally hits Rubber Roofing out of the Park.
![20141128_155052[1]](https://www.jgm-ni.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/20141128_1550521.jpg "Chimney Repair Belfast Bangor Holywood Newtownards Builders Roofers")
